Another morning, another gorgeous
sunrise. I was getting used to this trend. As a matter of fact, I
didn't even get out of bed to take pictures of this one. I just sat
up, shot a few frames, watched until the sun was higher than the
roofline of my palapa, and then dozed off for another hour or so.
Decompression achieved.
After a nice long walk on the beach, I
spent the rest of that first day in Bahia Los Angeles doing
practically nothing. I read a few hundred pages of my book, built
another fire, and thought about reorganizing the Jeep. I can't
remember being more relaxed than I was on that beach.
The day ended as most of them have with
another fire, more fish, and a couple of cold cervezas. The second
day at Bahia Los Angeles started the same way as the first, and I was
starting to wonder if I could possibly pass out from a complete lack
of stress. I had planned on going paddling, but the wind started
picking up just as I was unloaded my boat. Every book I've read
about Baja warns about the strong el Norte winds that rip down the
coast in the winter. I had no desire to work my ass off trying to
paddle over to the islands that dot the bay, so I grabbed my book and
waited to see what the wind would do.
By late afternoon, the wind had picked
up to about 20 knots, and it was time to break out the kite gear. I
drove 7 miles or so up the coast to Punta Gringa and started setting
up. Soon I had my kite rigged, my Jeep locked up, and my board
waiting by the water's edge. I launched off of the sand at Punta
Gringa and let out a “whoo-hoo” as I boosted a nice air off the
first wave I hit and started an 11 mile downwinder to the little town
center in Bahia Los Angeles. The islands that are sprinkled across
the bay are backed by a mountain range that makes up the point that
separates me from the Sea of Cortez proper. The islands are white
from the birds that roost there, and the mountains were glowing red
in the late afternoon sun. With the deep blue water and my green and
yellow kite it was a beautiful scene to be a part of. I didn't try
to push it too much. This session was more of a Sunday joy ride that
anything else, but I couldn't help ripping the top off of some of the
little wind swells, and charging the flat water pools that sat inside
the sand spits that poke off the sandy beach by the lighthouse at low
tide. I was having a blast as I cut past the lighthouse and into the
harbor to see the lights of the town start to flick on as the sun set
behind the Sierra Gigantes mountains. After quickly packing up on
the beach I was walking along the road for all of 2 minutes before a
little Mexican family in an old Toyota pick up truck pulled over to
give me a ride back up to my Jeep. I arrived back at my palapa just
as night fell. All in all a pretty efficient shuttle for a lone
gringo.
By now the fish I had gotten from my
friends on the boat in San Felippe had started to smell a little
funny. I decided to try my luck in town and found a nice little
hotel restaurant with an electrical outlet that I could use to write
for a bit. I had a great meal, a perfect margarita, and managed to
get a few days worth of notes worked up before heading home for the
night.
By day 3 in Bahia L.A. I had this place
wired. Sunrise, coffee, walk, wait for the wind to turn on. Once
again my paddling trip to the islands was canceled by wind, and I
started rigging up the kite for another run. I met a couple of the
other folks who were staying at the camp, and one of them offered to
take some pictures while I was riding. We did a quick photo session
and then I headed off downwind again. It was just as beautiful, but
today I was ready to push the envelope a bit. Big jumps and new
transitions were the recipe for the day, and I was gunning for it and
having a blast. But when I turned into the harbor for some slick
water fun at the end of my ride the wind just shut off. The land was
still too hot this early in the afternoon, and the wind off the water
wasn't even coming close to getting to the harbor. I limped my kite
back outside and felt the instant grab of 25 kts of power lift me
back out of the water. I saw a little collection of huts a couple of
miles down the coast and aimed for it. As I got close to land the
wind started getting finicky again and I was barely able to drag
myself into the beach.
A quick look around revealed that I was
pretty much in the middle of nowhere. Oh well, there's a dirt road
that leads back to town, and this is the kind of thing you have to be
ready to do if you're going to ride in new territory. It was just
like our early days of kiting on the Eastern Shore, but with cacti
and mountains instead of pine forests and crab pots.
Once again, I had only been walking for
a few minutes when I was offered a ride by one of the locals. This
time he was a young guy named Eduardo on a 150cc dirt bike. So there
I am with no shoes on hanging onto the back of a motorcycle on a
bumpy dirt road with my kite strapped to my back, and my board under
my arm. Back at camp I showed Eduardo how the kite worked and gave
him a couple of cold beers for his help.
About the time I got out of the shower
(hot this time, but still just spitting) I heard the familiar roar of
motorcycle engines pulling into the camp. Josh and John had made
their way down from Puertocitos and once again I had company. We
talked about heading into town to watch the Super Bowl with the
gringo contingent that was packed into the local restaurant that has
satellite TV, but never quite overcame the gravity at Campo
Archelon. At some point Josh went into town to find some bolts for
his bike. John sat by the fire and played the little Spanish guitar
he had picked up earlier in the day as I cooked dinner and mixed up a
couple of seaside margaritas. Josh eventually showed back up with a
few shots of tequila in his system and mumbled something about
Canadians before crashing out on the sand.